also known as the warp, runs parallel to the selvage. These yarns tend to be very strong because they are the ones held tight by the loom during weaving. Because they are strong they tend to hang straight. Designers line pattern pieces straight of the lengthwise grain to insure the garment lays ...

also known as the filling, fill or weft of the fabric. The crosswise grain runs perpendicular, at a 90 degree angle, to the selvage. This grain is less strong and tends to have some stretch.

is simply any direction of the fabric that is not the lengthwise or the crosswise. Although manufacturers generally lay pattern pieces on the lengthwise grain, having to can sometimes wastes fabric. In order to save money, depending on what the company’s standards are, for every X amount of pieces cut one can be cut ...

is exactly 45 degree angle between the lengthwise and crosswise. This is actually a technique discovered in the 1930’s, and allows the fabric to have a beautiful drape. You see this intentional cut on lots of evening gowns.

looks at both the lengthwise and the crosswise grain. The lengthwise grain should run down the center of the body. The crosswise grain should run parallel to the floor.

runs parallel to the lengthwise grain and is created by the yarn from the crosswise warp.

multiple rows of parallel gathers. This technique is often used with elastic thread.

controlled and stitched by taking two pieces of fabric, one longer than the other and stitching them together from end to end. The most common ratio is 2:1. The higher the ratio the more expensive it will be.

Is a fabric with a high degree of stretch and recover. This eliminates the need for darts, zippers and buttons. There are two types of elastic used in apparel: applied elastic and elastic casing. Applied Elastic is when you see the elastic on the body. Elastic Casing is when the elastic run ...

Smocking is very small gathers and pleats. This technique is often used in children’s wear.